The Hungry Cat

LOUVAR

On Friday night, I strolled from the Borders on Sunset and Vine with a paperback under my arm and ducked into The Hungry Cat a mere few steps away. The Hungry Cat is the inspiration of a chef named David Lentz. His reputation is such that I could not walk in without a fair amount of expectation, not unlike Psyche when first approaching the temple of the gods. Like her, I heard a lot about this place, it better be good. Meeting me there was Jake Gerhardt and his wife Karen and their daughter Frida and they were greeted like rock stars at the door. I suppose they come here a lot. Okay, they come here ALL THE TIME. Could there be a better advertisement for a restaurant?
I’m embarrassed to admit that I got lost the first time I came out here in July. You do not find The Hungry Cat by accident. It seems almost purposely hidden behind that Borders, unperceivable from the assembled throng of club-hoppers on Sunset Boulevard. I am not sure if I even saw a sign in front . There are no red carpets leading to this place nor are there clanging bells and whistles announcing its glories. But there are also no titles to Emily Dickinson’s poems and from what I have heard, no marquee in front of the Louvre. Greatness can stand alone and exhibit 1 is the squid salad appetizer on the list of specials. It is sneakily subtle, with arugula and almonds, but its vinaigrette has a last minute finish that put a smile on my face. And then came the entrée. The louvar dish is something you cannot get everyday at Hungry Cat but when you see it on the list of specials, order it. Please. The louvar is served over a bed of baby onions, Brussels sprouts, lobster mushrooms, and squash puree. It’s bathed in a lovely tarragon butter sauce. Tarragon is an herb often found in French cooking but the flavor was vaguely Asian to me, subtle but adroit in execution to induce the fork to constantly dig into its white flesh perfection. Lobster mushrooms, by the way, are not technically mushrooms but parasites that grow on mushrooms. Don’t let that scare you. It has a knee-buckling flavor that would bring tyrants to tears. The final result is simply the best piece of fish I ever had. The Louvar is a species that can be found in the Atlantic, Indian and Pacific in temperate and tropical waters. It can weigh as much as 150 kg so it can get big. But it is considered a harmless fish and fishermen are not allowed to zero in on it as a source of lovely, delicate seafood on their plates. But hey, if it accidentally lands in their net, no harm no foul. Reel her in.